12 November 08 Update
More goodies installed since October update:PakTrakr system to monitor the batteries. This is a very cool system if you're not aware of it. It monitors each battery and alerts you of several issues that may develop. Cost for my 24 battery pack was about $400 including a current sensor to monitor pack or motor amp draw, your choice but only one sensor.
Important notes for this system if you go that route. The remote units wired to the batteries tie to the display unit and contain a fuse for protection. The fuse is a "pico" 1 amp and is located at the ring terminal end of the black wire under the shrink wrap. It's there to protect the remote from idiots who might decide to cut the data cable while the unit is energized. I won't name names here but...
Anyway, the cable had to be cut to extend it as it was a little too short. I didn't think it would hurt the thing but be warned! It's a sort of sickening feeling when you whack the cable and the blinking status led goes out and won't come back on! To kill the power to the unit you don't have to disconnect all of the 9 leads on an 8 battery remote. Just remove the black lead and you can whack away!
LED turn signal/tail lamps and side marker lamps replaced old energy hog incandescent lamps! Don't know how much this will help but free power is a bonus in my mind however you look at it. Since it is being built for city driving the turn/brake lights will be on often. When the original 1157 lamps are on high as in braking or turning, they consumed 2.6A each for a total of 5.2A total. The LED's reduced that to 0.4A total, saving 4.8A at 13.5V or so which is roughly 65 watts. An LED tidbit: On this truck the side markers are #194 and the LED'S I bought were polarity sensitive meaning when I installed them one way they wouldn't work. They can plug in two ways so I had to reverse them if they didn't come on right away.
Once I replaced the last of 4 tail lamps, they went dim and stopped flashing. This problem is due to the small current flow of the new lamps. To fix this requires two Tridon EL-12 2-wire flashers be replaced with 3 wire electronic ones, Tridon #EP34 available at Advance Auto. The 3rd wire is to the battery - connection. Two units are needed as one is for the emergency flashers and the other for the turn signal operation.
I made wire leads with terminals to plug in the socket of the old units with the black - wire ran to the chassis. No need to buy a socket, just 6 male spade lugs and 6 females and some wire. Plug it in and tie wrap it up neatly out ot the way.
Upgraded the cassette stereo system which was nearly 20 years old to a new Sony Xplod unit. Speakers are Memphis Audio with an Alpine 10" sub run off a Memphis amp. Not bad for an old man and it sounds really good! Pops likes his music sometimes.
Replaced the old carpet It was old, faded and had to go. While we had it out we lined the floor pan with double sided radiant barrier.
This stuff works great at keeping heat in or out. Wherever it is, this stuff works to keep it there. I've used it for a few years now and have it in the home and office building.
Installed Fuse Block for the 12V stuff on the fire wall. As an electrician, I didn't like the idea of a cable ran direct from the battery with no fuse protection. That's how stuff catches fire! Make sure you fuse any wiring coming off the +12 of the battery or should something fail it could cause the wire to overheat and flame up! This is NOT what you want, particularly if you've got a ton of time in your project.
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